Intersected by the dormant volcano of Mount Teide, Tenerife is a story of two halves. While the sunworshipper pilgrimage tends to head south for the beaches and pretty much guaranteed dry, warm weather, tropical Tenerife lies to the north, often offering lush vegetation, plantations and palms.
OK, it’s slightly cooler here. And more humid. That’s primarily due to northeast trade winds and the fact that Tiede blocks air currents from the south. But for those prepared to leave their flip flops at base and to pack a sweater just in case, a different kind of cultural experience awaits.
Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the island’s capital city, isn’t some kind of hidden secret. It’s a major centre for employment for local residents for one thing. Expats who are keen to hide from the more touristic resorts also know it well. For visitors it’s not too tricky to reach, though for those landing at Tenerife Sur airport—the main international airport—access requires a little more effort. That said, these things are relative: at less than an hour’s bus ride from Tenerife Sur, those who choose Santa Cruz for at least part of their stay can sample best of both worlds that the island has to offer.
FROM CONQUISTADORS TO CONTEMPORARY VIBES
The history of Santa Cruz de Tenerife bears a story of Spanish colonialism, beginning with the island’s discovery by 15th century conquistadors who claimed the island as their own. Landing at what is now Santa Cruz, they set about constructing the port city. Strategically, the location of the Canary Islands, sitting on the shoulder of north-west Africa, was perfect for transatlantic crossings from the New World and lay on vital trade routes.
Modern day Santa Cruz is a vibrant city. All the usual urban trappings you’d expect are here; fashion outlets (high end and high street), boutiques, restaurants and cultural activities. Around 210,000 people live here, representing around half of the native island population, likely a result of better employment opportunities for those outside of the tourist trade and the fact that rented accommodation is generally cheaper than in the south. Undeniably, Santa Cruz is a working town, but also one which offers maritime paseos, landscaped parks, old town charm and cultural attractions.
Image: EM Windle
THE OLD TOWN
For visitors here only for a few days but keen on navigating the main sites of interest in Santa Cruz, most can be found in the city centre. The centre itself can be considered as three overlapping zones—the port area, the shopping district, and the pedestrianised part of the old town. It’s a walkable city: flat with most of the major landmarks within a twenty-minute walk in any direction.
Most of the old town is contained within roughly three points: Calle la Noria with its bars, restaurants and eateries; the prominent squares of Plaza de España and Plaza de Candelaria which lie in close proximity to each other; and Plaza de Weyler. Within this main perimeter, shops sell fashion accessories, clothes and electronic goods. Several bars and restaurants with outside seating are shared by locals and day visitors who alight from the ferry port just a few minutes away.
Image: EM Windle
The old quarter is also where one of the oldest churches in Tenerife, La Concepción (the Church of the Immaculate Conception) is located. Originally built in 1500, it was destroyed in a fire but re-erected in the following century. The Carta Palace, or Palacio de Carta, is located in Candelaria Square. This one-time civic building technically remains government property, though is now an events space and a tourist information centre.
El Toscal is a neighbourhood at the northern end of Santa Cruz, and has strong historical links with the city’s port activities. In most of the 19th century, the area had few residential properties, mainly warehouses and wineries, until the merchants, insurance agents and shipping agents came to settle. Parque Garcia Sanabria is located on the edge of El Toscal. The park offers some quiet respite just a short distance away from the main shopping area, and has been carefully landscaped with palm trees, cacti, sculptures and fountains.
Image: EM Windle
THE PORT
Much of the origins of Spanish history on the island are evidenced in Santa Cruz. It was here where, in 1494, the Castilian Alonso Fernandez de Lugo arrived, and the port established where ships sailing between continental Europe and the Americas could stop to refuel and trade with other merchants before continuing their onward journeys.
Puerto de Santa Cruz is the main ship handling and fishing port of Tenerife. Ferry and cruise line companies bringing passengers to the port from Europe, Africa and the US. At one point, the port was recognised as one of the top three busiest passenger ports in the world. The city centre can be accessed from here via a free shuttle bus service or a pleasant short walk along the palm tree lined paseo that stretches along the harbourfront.
If there’s one contemporary landmark in Santa Cruz that graces tourist information brochures and TV commercials it’s the Auditorio de Tenerife, also sometimes referred to as the Adán Martin auditorium (in reference to the controversial former President of the Canary Islands). Sitting on Avenida de la Constitución by the seafront, the auditorium’s location and imposing wave crest-shaped arches are reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House. This concert hall, arts and cultural event space was designed by the architect Santiago Calatrava, took five years to construct and was completed 2023.
Image: EM Windle
SHOPPING
The city offers a mix of shopping experiences. Calle del Castillo is the main commercial shopping street of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Standard outlets can be found in the Centro Comercial Meridiano mall on Avenida Manuel Hermoso Rojas, which includes a cinema and rooftop restaurant. Downtown Santa Cruz also offers boutique experiences. Back in the old town, there is the daily Nuestra Señora de Africamarket, open daily until the early afternoon.
HOW TO GET THERE
While there are two main airports in Tenerife, most European flights arrive at Tenerife Sur (South) Airport (TFS). From the airport, it takes 45-60 minutes by car or taxi up the TF-1 motorway. Taxi transfer is around 100 euros at 2025 prices, with an additional supplement at weekends or during the night.
The bus is a cheaper option at around 8-10 euros per person. The direct TITSA number 10 bus runs every 30 minutes during the day from the front of the airport, takes about 60 minutes, and terminates at the central Santa Cruz de Tenerife bus station. At night, the TITSA 711 operates between TFS and the city, but takes longer (about 90 minutes). For those based at Los Christianos in the south, take the TITSA 112. Other bus services may be available at neighbouring resorts.
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