Immediately upon entering Skopje, its charm and beauty cannot be denied. Situated in the heart of the Jakupica Range and constructed at the base of the 1000-foot Mount Vodno with its looming 200-foot iron cross on the summit, the city offers a combination of cultural tradition, history and modern architecture, and makes for a unique experience.

A HISTORY OF IMPERIALISM

North Macedonia is a landlocked Balkan country bordering five countries: Bulgaria, Serbia, Kosovo, Greece and Albania. For centuries, North Macedonia stood at the crossroads of colonialism, culture and conflict. The country has witnessed the rise and fall of a number of ancient kingdoms.

Originally, the Paeonians (an ancient Indo-European people) were here, and later, the Macedonian Empire led by Alexander the Great, whose influence stretched across multiple continents. In 168 BC the Romans ruled. The next two hundred years were marked by the Byzantine era, then the Ottoman Empire dominated for five centuries. The combination of eastern and western influences has left significant physical marks on Macedonia, exemplified by the presence of a multitude of ancient mosques alongside orthodox cathedrals.

Following the collapse of the Ottoman rule in the early 20^th century, the region was absorbed into Yugoslavia, and experienced war, occupation and political turmoil before emerging as an independent republic in 1991. Despite decades of dispute with Greece, the land was finally established as North Macedonia in 2019. To the tourist industry as a whole, the country is still very much a hidden gem, but also one rooted in multiculturalism and architectural fusion.

BEARINGS

Skopje serves as the political and economic hub of the country and is home to half a million residents. Located in the northern region of North Macedonia, the city stretches along the Vardar River. Following centuries of political change, Skopje gradually developed into the country’s largest urban centre with a heavy focus on government, business and education. Skopje today contains some of North Macedonia’s most important institutions, universities and cultural landmarks. Despite its relatively small size, it maintains a lively atmosphere with crowded cafes and busy public squares. Here, historical spots of interest and natural spaces combine with contemporary developments and buildings.

CATASTROPHE AND REBIRTH

Despite evidence of its past clearly on show, much of present-day Skopje was transformed following a catastrophic earthquake in 1963, when nearly 80 percent of the city was destroyed. Residential areas were left in ruins and thousands of people instantly displaced. International aid was provided by the United Nations, alongside major contributions from both the US and UK. Skopje’s eventual reconstruction was effective, with infrastructure characterised by brutalist and concrete architecture, largely influenced by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange at the height of the cold war. Throughout rebuilding, care was taken to conserve historical areas. The Old Bazaar, the Ottoman-era quarter of cobbled lanes, craft workshops and local food markets, is perhaps the best preserved.

Image copyright: Kay Windle

SKOPJE 2014 REDEVELOPMENT PROJECT

One thing that makes Skopje stand out from many of its Balkan neighbours is the number and sheer scale of statues located throughout the city centre. More than 100 monuments line squares, bridges and riverbanks, depicting national leaders, revolutionaries, scholars and saints. At first glance, these imposing figures appear to be ancient elements of Skopje’s preserved past, yet most are recent additions, introduced as part of the “Skopje 2014” redevelopment project.

This initiative aimed to reshape the capital’s image by promoting strong and visually recognisable figures, boosting the city’s reputation and attracting tourism. The most striking landmark commands Macedonia Square: a 22-metre bronze statue officially titled “Warrior on a Horse” but widely understood to represent Alexander the Great, ancient king of Macedonia and one of history’s most celebrated military strategists.

Image copyright: Kay Windle.

Symbolism, however, extends far beyond the main square. Along the banks of the Vardar River, visitors encounter a continuous procession of monuments dedicated to figures from national history. The result is a cityscape that feels theatrical and at times surreal where towering statues attempt to narrate the national story in stone and bronze. For some residents, the Skopje 2014 project represents a proud assertion of identity after decades of political transition. Others have criticised the initiative for its cost. Regardless, Skopje’s colossi are impossible to ignore and have turned the city into one of the most visually distinctive capitals in the Balkans.

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Author bio: Kay Windle is a Yorkshire, UK-based writer, with an academic background in Human Rights. She is currently a legal researcher for Human Right 2 Water. Interests include global travel and culture.